After a period of cultivation of oriental fruits, the flowering family flourishes in female forms. With two distinct trends: on the one hand, green roses and soft petals evoking a welcoming nature, on the other hand, solar white flowers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
In 2021, this family is in the spotlight, as 20 of the 39 launches of luxury women\u2019s perfumes are part of it. While last year was already very floral, the shift is tightening towards naturalness. Rose remains at the forefront (present in 33 new launches), invoking a more benevolent nature than ever before. Ethereal pepper (Olympea Blossom, Paco Rabanne \u2013 Puig) or powdered rose adorns itself with a petal-like softness.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Even (LVMH) reinterprets its Eau de Toilette Flower with a more transparent rose, enhanced with mandarin and lemon, lifted by its oriental base. In the confidential labels, the queen of flowers is also treated in a fresh and identifiable way, as at Delina La Ros\u00e9e Parfums de Marly, bordered by lychee and peony, another flower in vogue in 2021. Elsewhere, its pastel petals coated in violet and iris create a powdery sensuality (Rose Ch\u00e9rie, l\u2019Art & La Mati\u00e8re, Guerlain \u2013 LVMH), or are surrounded by still-moist muguet; for the sensations of fresh grass also contaminate many creations.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\u201cThe green facet, perfect for invoking nature and soothing the appetite, is present in all categories,\u201d says Isabelle Ferrand, director of Cinqui\u00e8me Sens. \u201cThis is the case with the new women\u2019s collections \u2013 Nina Rose Garden (Puig). It\u2019s Paris, Carven (Bogard), A drop d\u2019issey by Miyake (Sbiseido) \u2013 and in the men\u2019s collections \u2013 H24, Herm\u00e8s, Phantom, Paco Rabanne (Puig) \u2013 or in author-created perfumes \u2013 Synthetic Jungle, Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric Malle (Lauder), the Rivi\u00e8re collection by Cartier.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n
In this quest for natural elements, new notes of nose that are more aqueous and ozonically charged than outright iodized, splash out the creations of the beautiful season. To be felt in Nettare Di Sole Aqua Allegoria by Guerlain (LVMH), Bois Flott\u00e9 by L\u2019Occitane, Kenzo Homme Intense by L\u2019Or\u00e9al (LVMH), Costa Azzura by Tom Ford (Lauder)<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Sensational nature<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\u00abThis need for reconnection with nature is not new, but it has transformed,\u00bb analyzes Pierre<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Bisseuil, co-founder of the collective The Prospectivists.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\u201cIn the 1990s, the wave of fresh and aquatic scents responded to the desires for sport and well-being while also evoking a heavy, abstract perfume \u2013 Opium YSL, Tr\u00e9sor Lanc\u00f4me, Poison Dior\u2026 This wave was put to rest by the flood of ethyl-mantolet. Today, this tendency towards the elements is primarily driven by emotion and feeling, accentuated by the confinements that have cut us off from outdoor walks. The sociologist Georges Vigarello (*) describes these new expectations perfectly. Consumers seek a direct connection with nature. Without being entirely figurative, the perfume must present an accord or facet that mines a sensation experienced, such as a walk in the forest, a leaf rustling against your fingers or breathing in the open air. The green notes therefore fulfill this mission, just as those in A Kiss From A Rose by Kilian (lauder) or the bouquet in Miss Dior Eau de Parfum (LVMH).\u00a0This fantasy of a benevolent campaign is confirmed by the Dior advertising film in which Natalie Portman wanders through a lush, multicolored field. \u201dIn the current trend of transparency, more and more flowers are also sourced from sustainable sources; it has almost become an imperative,\u201c adds Isabelle Ferrand. For example, the Id\u00f4le Aura rose from Lanc\u00f4me (L\u2019Or\u00e9al) comes from a solidarity partnership in Turkey. The niche is also focusing on traceability, ethics and sustainability. Thus, when Carlotha Ray, a designer on the wind, launches her eponymous perfumes, her Rose & Gard\u00e9nia \u2013 yet another fresh green flower \u2013 is displayed with 90% of ingredients of natural origin and 20% upcycled, organic vegetable alcohol, but without UV filter or colorant, as well as a lightweight and recycled glass bead at 40%\u2026 (Spring, Nocib\u00e9, Blissim.fr). Chlo\u00e9 (Coty) goes a step further, revisiting its signature perfume with a composition based on 100% natural ingredients.\u00a0The lineage with the older one is recognizable through its fresh, fruity and powdered rose. In terms of communication, the brand invested in a garden in Paris, in Montmartre, for several days to bring in influencers from all over the world.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
With juicy fruits<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Even the vintage touch at Angel Nova by Mugler (L\u2019Or\u00e9al), whose rose is both sour and upcycled before being combined with the raspberry in a grenadine syrup kind of way. Because the fruity facet remains the most represented with 40 appearances, for 26 gourmand facets. Very tasty red fruits remain a sure bet (Givenchy\u2019s Eau de Toilette Irresistible \u2013 LVMH, Tobacolor, Dior \u2013 LVMH, Kate Spade \u2013 Interparfums\u2026) At the top of the podium, pear becomes the most felt fruit with its juicy sweetness that refreshes \u2013 Terra di Gioa by Armani (L\u2019Or\u00e9al), Gucci Flora Gorgeous Magnolia (Coty)\u2026, mentioned in the title at pear Inc by Juliette Has a Gun.\u00a0The Corbaille 2021 also contains fragrances that make any rose irresistible (Spell on You, Louis Vuitton \u2013 LVMH), while perfectly complementing the milky effects of sandalwood and white flowers (I Want Choo, Jimmy Choo \u2013 Interparfums, The One Gold Intense, Dolce & Gabbana \u2013 Shiseido, Tuberosa, the Couvent des Minimes \u2013 Kresk\u2026).
\u201cThese are the two extreme trends of florals that coexist: on the one hand, there is a breakthrough in naturalness, with these fresh roses and green and marine touches. On the other hand, there is a search for comfort with solar and powdery salicylated notes. These recall a bohemian pleasure, just as the gourmand facets of milk chocolate do,\u201d explains Isabelle Ferrand. Among these amber florals with their cocooning sensuality, we can mention Id\u00f4le Aura by Lanc\u00f4me (L\u2019Or\u00e9al), Eau de N\u00e9roli Ambr\u00e9 by Narciso (shiseido), My Way Intense by Armani (L\u2019Or\u00e9al) and Lady Million Fabulous by Paco Rabanne (Puig). A profusion of flowers when young girls have never cried out more about their need to break free from genres: the times are not far from a paradox.
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