After a period of cultivation of oriental fruits, the flowering family flourishes in female forms. With two distinct trends: on the one hand, green roses and soft petals evoking a welcoming nature, on the other hand, solar white flowers.
In 2021, this family is in the spotlight, as 20 of the 39 launches of luxury women’s perfumes are part of it. While last year was already very floral, the shift is tightening towards naturalness. Rose remains at the forefront (present in 33 new launches), invoking a more benevolent nature than ever before. Ethereal pepper (Olympea Blossom, Paco Rabanne – Puig) or powdered rose adorns itself with a petal-like softness.
Even (LVMH) reinterprets its Eau de Toilette Flower with a more transparent rose, enhanced with mandarin and lemon, lifted by its oriental base. In the confidential labels, the queen of flowers is also treated in a fresh and identifiable way, as at Delina La Rosée Parfums de Marly, bordered by lychee and peony, another flower in vogue in 2021. Elsewhere, its pastel petals coated in violet and iris create a powdery sensuality (Rose Chérie, l’Art & La Matière, Guerlain – LVMH), or are surrounded by still-moist muguet; for the sensations of fresh grass also contaminate many creations.
“The green facet, perfect for invoking nature and soothing the appetite, is present in all categories,” says Isabelle Ferrand, director of Cinquième Sens. “This is the case with the new women’s collections – Nina Rose Garden (Puig). It’s Paris, Carven (Bogard), A drop d’issey by Miyake (Sbiseido) – and in the men’s collections – H24, Hermès, Phantom, Paco Rabanne (Puig) – or in author-created perfumes – Synthetic Jungle, Frédéric Malle (Lauder), the Rivière collection by Cartier.”
In this quest for natural elements, new notes of nose that are more aqueous and ozonically charged than outright iodized, splash out the creations of the beautiful season. To be felt in Nettare Di Sole Aqua Allegoria by Guerlain (LVMH), Bois Flotté by L’Occitane, Kenzo Homme Intense by L’Oréal (LVMH), Costa Azzura by Tom Ford (Lauder)
Sensational nature
«This need for reconnection with nature is not new, but it has transformed,» analyzes Pierre
Bisseuil, co-founder of the collective The Prospectivists.
“In the 1990s, the wave of fresh and aquatic scents responded to the desires for sport and well-being while also evoking a heavy, abstract perfume – Opium YSL, Trésor Lancôme, Poison Dior… This wave was put to rest by the flood of ethyl-mantolet. Today, this tendency towards the elements is primarily driven by emotion and feeling, accentuated by the confinements that have cut us off from outdoor walks. The sociologist Georges Vigarello (*) describes these new expectations perfectly. Consumers seek a direct connection with nature. Without being entirely figurative, the perfume must present an accord or facet that mines a sensation experienced, such as a walk in the forest, a leaf rustling against your fingers or breathing in the open air. The green notes therefore fulfill this mission, just as those in A Kiss From A Rose by Kilian (lauder) or the bouquet in Miss Dior Eau de Parfum (LVMH). This fantasy of a benevolent campaign is confirmed by the Dior advertising film in which Natalie Portman wanders through a lush, multicolored field. ”In the current trend of transparency, more and more flowers are also sourced from sustainable sources; it has almost become an imperative,“ adds Isabelle Ferrand. For example, the Idôle Aura rose from Lancôme (L’Oréal) comes from a solidarity partnership in Turkey. The niche is also focusing on traceability, ethics and sustainability. Thus, when Carlotha Ray, a designer on the wind, launches her eponymous perfumes, her Rose & Gardénia – yet another fresh green flower – is displayed with 90% of ingredients of natural origin and 20% upcycled, organic vegetable alcohol, but without UV filter or colorant, as well as a lightweight and recycled glass bead at 40%… (Spring, Nocibé, Blissim.fr). Chloé (Coty) goes a step further, revisiting its signature perfume with a composition based on 100% natural ingredients. The lineage with the older one is recognizable through its fresh, fruity and powdered rose. In terms of communication, the brand invested in a garden in Paris, in Montmartre, for several days to bring in influencers from all over the world.
With juicy fruits
Even the vintage touch at Angel Nova by Mugler (L’Oréal), whose rose is both sour and upcycled before being combined with the raspberry in a grenadine syrup kind of way. Because the fruity facet remains the most represented with 40 appearances, for 26 gourmand facets. Very tasty red fruits remain a sure bet (Givenchy’s Eau de Toilette Irresistible – LVMH, Tobacolor, Dior – LVMH, Kate Spade – Interparfums…) At the top of the podium, pear becomes the most felt fruit with its juicy sweetness that refreshes – Terra di Gioa by Armani (L’Oréal), Gucci Flora Gorgeous Magnolia (Coty)…, mentioned in the title at pear Inc by Juliette Has a Gun. The Corbaille 2021 also contains fragrances that make any rose irresistible (Spell on You, Louis Vuitton – LVMH), while perfectly complementing the milky effects of sandalwood and white flowers (I Want Choo, Jimmy Choo – Interparfums, The One Gold Intense, Dolce & Gabbana – Shiseido, Tuberosa, the Couvent des Minimes – Kresk…).
“These are the two extreme trends of florals that coexist: on the one hand, there is a breakthrough in naturalness, with these fresh roses and green and marine touches. On the other hand, there is a search for comfort with solar and powdery salicylated notes. These recall a bohemian pleasure, just as the gourmand facets of milk chocolate do,” explains Isabelle Ferrand. Among these amber florals with their cocooning sensuality, we can mention Idôle Aura by Lancôme (L’Oréal), Eau de Néroli Ambré by Narciso (shiseido), My Way Intense by Armani (L’Oréal) and Lady Million Fabulous by Paco Rabanne (Puig). A profusion of flowers when young girls have never cried out more about their need to break free from genres: the times are not far from a paradox.
source: https://www.cosmetiquemag.fr
