jessica huyng has tested the new wave of training in the confidential perfumery hhktub.jpg

Jessica HUYNG tested for you: The Nouvelle Vague training program from Parfumerie Confidentielle

Byredo, État libre d’orange, Maison Francis Kurkdjian… There are many secret perfume brands that have emerged in the 2000s. You too are lost in this ocean of perfumes? It’s true that the rise of secret perfume has been increasingly noticed for several years now.

Byredo, État libre d’orange, Maison Francis Kurkdjian… There are many private perfume brands that have emerged in the 2000s. You too are lost in this ocean of perfumes? It’s true that the rise of private perfume has been increasingly noticed over the past few years. And it’s not just an impression! Between 2010 and 2020, more than 10,000 new perfumes have entered the market, an impressive increase of +457% compared to the previous decade. To study this “new wave”, that is, the players in the niche perfume industry born after 2000, Cinquième Sens offers a one-day training session that I followed with great attention. I particularly appreciated the wealth of teachings presented in the form of brand presentations and concepts, but especially the blind scenting sessions. The tone is friendly and pleasant, and the exchanges between participants contribute to the good atmosphere. Whether you are a professional in the beauty world or simply a perfume enthusiast, you will undoubtedly discover new brands that you did not know about until now. The training begins with a theoretical chapter (marketing, communication, distribution…) dedicated to this segment, which has long been at odds with the so-called classic perfume industry, even though, as you will see during this module, the boundaries tend to disappear today…

In the program of this “new wave” training, we studied nearly fifty brands born after the year 2000, from a marketing and also an olfactory perspective, which can be classified into two categories: those already well established like Le Labo, By Kilian and Juliette has a gun, but also a wide selection of young brands that are only a few years old such as pH Fragrances, which belongs to the “clean” movement, and Ella K, founded by the perfumer Sonia Constant. In short, original initiatives, extravagant propositions, but above all emotional juices that we naturally expect from niche perfume! Do you know Akro, for example? 

The brand founded by perfumer Olivier Cresp and his daughter Anaïs is based on an innovative concept: that of addictions. This means that it offers fragrant creations. We were able to try Haze, which is inspired by cannabis smoke… We also discovered État libre d’orange, a pioneer of bold creation, and its juice Putain des palaces… which smells like a casserole! And to discover which brand presents its perfumes through a haiku (Japanese poem) or that which combines perfume and music, you’ll have to follow the course Découverte de la nouvelle vague de la parfumerie confidentielle…

Three good reasons to attend this training:

– have an updated overview of the niche perfume industry

– know the latest trends in the field and innovative concepts

– it is a very good complement to the Discovering the Pioneers of Confidential Perfumery course (the two modules can of course be taken separately).

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